There is this amazing tiny country in Southern Africa, Botswana, earlier called Bechuanaland. Long back, in the late 80s, I had a chance to visit this country as my parents had moved there for a while and we would go to spend summer holidays with them. Now from movies, media and general prejudices, I had the impression that Africa is always embroiled in violence. Nothing could have been farther from truth. Botswana was a surprise neat little package. A small plane ferried us from Johannesburg to Gaborone, the capital city. The first view was breathtaking – vast expanse of beautiful golden land and a general feeling of space and freedom. Gaborone itself had beautiful roads and seemed a modern well organized city. But most of all, the country was and is totally peaceful. I mean not just in the bigger sense of politics etc. but day to day interactions between people were easy going and harmonious. There was virtually no crime. My younger brother studying in a school there also told me that he never saw boys fighting – never. And if I could describe the general local culture it was, light, friendly and somewhat joyful / “jolly”. That part joyful I loved the most. People would be walking on the street, say coming back from a grocery store and on the way would listen to some music; they would stop, drop their bags and start dancing. Just like that.
Politically
speaking, Botswana is the most stable, continuous and peaceful democracy of Africa.
Although a single party has won all the elections but elections are free and
fair. The economy is hugely dependent on diamonds exports but infrastructure is
good as well as economic environment rather transparent. As measured by
Transparency international, its index is 64, just a little behind the developed
countries. In early 2000s Botswana faced a scourge in AIDS which the government
worked promptly and with dedication to bring it under control. Botswana's press freedom
index is 22.91, again quite close to the developed world. As a special mention,
press freedom index is high for most African nations; on this aspect the
continent does better than Asia as well as Latin America. Africa is also a
nation of vast landscapes and space as population density is quite low and is
in fact lower than in Europe; the chief culprit in population explosion again really
is Asia.
On
beautiful highways, we took a road trip to Niagara falls and on the way stayed
with an African family in Francistown. He was a friend and colleague of my
father and introduced his lady as “acting wife” and we had a great time
interacting with them. Another time, a neighbor introduced
his many kids as coming from different acting wives. My family especially my father had a liberal outlook and
so we enjoyed such cultural differences. They just basically have a
good sense of humor and dance and laugh a lot. I really liked it.
Years later,
I read a book called the “Cry of Kalahari” which was really awesome though I
could not quite connect it to Botswana as I had experienced mostly the urban
city life part.
But, let us
give this memoir – ish post some serious flavor. Now, many years later, I
started researching for a book I wanted to write on democracy. The moment I
would read about democratic experience in Africa, it would be laced with terms
like Tribalism, endemic culture of violence etc etc. I just could not relate to
such sweeping dismissals as my early experience was awesome. Now, lacking such
prejudices, my conclusions from the study of African politics were very
different. For instance, refugees from Rwandan genocide escaped to Democratic F
Republic of Congo as well as Tanzania. In Congo, civil war started few years
down the line only after Mobutu Sese Seko fled the nation. Competing factions
tore up the nation in the resultant power vacuum, ostensibly in a quest for democracy.
Tanzania on the other hand had a strong centralized government and no such
violence erupted. Rwanda too was brought under control by Paul Kagame. So, my
analysis seemed to suggest there are factors at play other than tribalism and
endemic culture of violence. To my mind it looks like sudden power vacuum at
the top as well as premature political opening up never works in poor divided
societies (and you may pick up my book ‘Democracy on Trial, All Rise!’ should
you want to study that in detail). So maybe our starting assumptions will
determine the conclusions we reach. And here I must say, having experienced
Botswana as the African prototype my assumptions about Africa or the people
would always remain positive and it is hard for me to relate to genetic
tribalism or violence sort of sweeping theories. In my research too, I did not
find this to be true.
Then again,
there are some crazy theories fielded that power must change hands after two
elections for a democracy to be genuine. That is because for many political
theorists, democracy is the end not the means to good governance. So, among
African democracies, Ghana was the more celebrated one but I quite see Botswana
as the model African country.
Pity I
could not go to the Kalahari… hopefully someday I would!


